Wednesday - Climbing Day

Got an early, but not super early, start.  A party going fast and light passed our camp as we were finishing breakfast. On the move by 6:00, we made quick work of the snow-field above to get to the lower saddle.   The fixed rope we had read about was not in place, but there was a clear track across the snow slope, and we donned our crampons to cross to the saddle.








Moved along the Black Dike to the base of the climb,  We had read a lot of posts about folks starting up too early, or missing the start and going too far, but we found the right ramp and found our way to the base of the chock stone chimney.

The climbing went well, though not without incident.  As I struggled to get though the chock stone chimney, my day pack was getting jammed, so I tried to pull it off and get though that way.  Bad move, as I dropped it to the base of the climb.  Fortunately, it was at the very start of the route, so I retrieved it and switch to my approach shoes and stowed my rock shoes in the pack.  This time I slipped through the opening with no problem.

At the base of the Black Face, the rope coil fell off the pedestal we were standing on and got jammed in a crack.  I had to down climb and free it, then chimney back up to the start of the pitch.  The face that followed was amazing!  Steep and exposed, but with excellent rock and holds so plentiful it was like being in the gym.

I should also add, that the altitude (over 12,000 feet) was making itself felt.  At each belay, I would be fine, but as soon as I stated climbing, I was panting like a dog.